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9 April 2025

I wasn’t sure about visiting the Isle of Bute. Its proximity to Glasgow and the regularity of the 45 minute ferry crossings gave me the impression that it would be quite busy, over-commercial and a bit ‘seasidey’.  Given my preference for deserted beaches, and the fact that I had decided to visit on a beautiful spring day in the Easter school holidays, I had managed my expectations accordingly. I certainly expected it to be less attractive that Arran, where I had been the previous week. How wrong I was. I was blown away by this lovely island. Once the destination of choice for upper class Glaswegians, the Edwardian splendour is still evident in the architecture around Rothesay, the main town. What surprised me most was how rural and unspoilt the island is beyond Rothesay. The beaches especially were all largely deserted and away from main roads. Even the island’s most popular beach, the expansive Ettrick Bay, was quiet and still on my arrival at 8am. It was the perfect place to stretch the legs and prepare a full day’s walking ahead. It was just me and the oyster-catchers as the sun rose into the blue sky. The positive vibe I got here was to stay with me, and get stronger, as the day wore on.  I made a further stop at Ettrick Bay, at the southern end this time, later in the day to eat my  salad lunch on one of the many benches overlooking the bay.