240. Ettrick Bay

I have to admit, I’m not entirely sure what to expect from the Isle of Bute. Its proximity to Glasgow and the regularity of the 45 minute ferry crossings has led me to prepare for an island experience that is quite busy, over-commercial and a bit ‘seasidey’. Given my preference for deserted beaches, and the fact that I have decided to visit on a beautiful spring day in the Easter school holidays, I have managed my expectations accordingly. I certainly expect it to be less attractive that Arran, where I had been the previous week. As it turns out, I was completely wrong, and I am blown away by this lovely island. Once the destination of choice for upper class Glaswegians, the Edwardian splendour is still evident in the architecture around Rothesay, the main town. What surprises me most is how rural and unspoilt the island is beyond Rothesay. The beaches especially are all largely deserted and away from main roads. Even the island’s most popular beach, the expansive Ettrick Bay, is quiet and still on my arrival at 8am. It’s the perfect place to stretch the legs and prepare a full day’s walking ahead. It’s just me and the oyster-catchers as the sun rises into the blue sky. The positive vibe I get here is to stay with me, and get stronger, as the day wears on.  I make a further stop at Ettrick Bay, at the southern end this time, later in the day to eat my  salad lunch on one of the many benches overlooking the bay.