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9 September 2026

It’s time to head back to Dumfries & Galloway to continue my tour of South West Scotland and I arrive early with the promise of a sunny September day ahead of me. On my last visit a few weeks ago, I got as far west as Monreith Bay in Wigtownshire, and so today the plan is to pick up the coast road where I left off and head into the beautiful Rhins of Galloway, the double-headed peninsula which represents the southernmost point of Scotland, and with beaches on either side. But first, I need to go round the northern rim of spectacular Luce Bay.  This bay, 20 miles wide, has a long military connection. Formerly a bombing range for the RAF, it’s still an official MOD testing range with occasional access restrictions in place. The huge bay has two named beaches at either end, the first of which – on the eastern edge of the bay – is at the tiny settlement of Stairhaven. It’s mainly rocky but with some sandy stretches, and has houses situated at either end. It’s 9am and it’s a pleasant way to start the day.