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29 April 2026

I have been to Eigg once before. Two years ago (almost to the day), I took the Arisaig ferry to the lovely Isle of Muck, via a 20-minute stopover at Eigg. On that occasion I only had time for a tea and cake in the cafe before reboarding, so I am excited to be back on the same ferry for a five-hour day trip. The boat is packed and almost everyone has a dog, but I have no idea where they disperse to because I barely see a soul all day. Straight from the ferry I head north along the island’s main road, now referred to as the Singing Sands Trail because it winds it way all the way to the northwest corner and the stunning beach at Cleadale (Traigh ne Bigil). I pass the island’s school and distillery on my 90-minute walk north, serenaded by lambs and cuckoos. I am passed by a few locals and Charlie’s taxi, but it’s mainly deserted.  The first view of the beach is breathtaking and I see a few visitors are pottering about below. I climb down the track, onto the wide sand bay and explore a little with the imposing mountains of Rum sitting directly opposite, before climbing back up to the overlooking cliff edge.