
2. Sands Beach
After a night at the Torridon Hotel, I am lucky enough to wake up to a beautiful sunny Autumn morning. It’s a Sunday, perfect for the drive over the famous Bealach na Ba road – often described as one of the scariest drives in Europe. It’s a thrilling drive that’s for sure, but tougher than the Hardknott Pass in the Lake District? I’m not sure. I stop briefly at the top for a look around before heading down into Applecross and onto Sands Beach, just outside the village along the coast road. This is a popular bay and rightly so. I read that the house on the edge of the beach was once owned by a TV presenter. Fancy that. I have a wander around before crossing the road to climb a ridge from where the views are magnificent. Heading back to the car, I meet a young guy pulling a trolley. He’s keen to talk. He tells me he’s homeless and the trolley contains all his possessions. He’s been spending two years wandering around Britain, with no route or plan. Just walking day by day, earning some money where he can. He’s bright and personable, with quite a back story. He tells me he’s never been happier. He woke this morning in a disused barn to find a red deer watching him from the doorway. You can’t pay for that, he rightly reminds me. He’s heading to Applecross, so I give him a tenner for some food. He’s very grateful and we shake hands. Back to the car, I drive up the coast road towards Loch Torridon, hugging the peninsula and meeting some rather wonderful Highland cattle on the way.






