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31 August 2022

So yesterday I visited three North Uist beaches to begin my first Western Islands visit before driving through ‘the chain’ to stay at the excellent Polochar Inn at the bottom of South Uist (leaving all the South Uist beaches for another visit).  Next morning, I’m up bright and early to catch the first ferry to Barra, where I plan to spend the day beach-hopping. I’m so lucky. It’s another beautiful blue-sky day and I know I am in for a treat. Some midges are causing the waiting foot passengers some irritation at the Eriksay ferry terminal, but they fail to make the short journey over and the whole day remains midge-free. First stop is Vatersay, which of course I have heard so much about. Vatersay is the small southernmost inhabited island of the Outer Hebrides, connected to Barra by a causeway and very popular … largely because of its amazing beaches. The two most visited beaches are barely yards apart, one facing east, one facing west, and separated by a road. I park midway between the two and plump for Traigh a Bhaigh first. To reach the beach, you’re expected to pass through the famous Vatersay gate – perhaps the most photographed gate in Scotland! The spot also marks the start of the 156 mile Hebridean Way, which runs all the way to the Butt of Lewis. Surprisingly, despite the beautiful morning, the beach is empty. It’s smaller than I imagined but wonderfully compact and basically, pretty much perfect. Unfortunately, the early morning sun directly opposite makes photographing the famous gate a little tricky, but hey.