60. Bagh A’Deas

Most people who visit Vatersay will probably hang around the twin beaches near the main settlement, with its excellent cafe. But for those prepared to venture a little further south a treat is in store at Bagh A’Deas. I make the short walk from the village, past a few scattered houses and across some fields. A lady hanging out her morning washing says hello. I can’t imagine what it’s like to live here. When I arrive at the beach, I find the local cattle population have grabbed all the best spots. About 20 cows are lined up along the shoreline, facing the same way as if in a queue for something. A few calves are taking a paddle. It’s such a glorious sight, especially when viewed from the low hills along the back of the beach. I sit for a while watching the ‘queue’ and then head further around the bay where some of the more adventurous cows (probably boys) are making their ungainly way across the rocks. I decide not to venture too close onto the beach itself, preferring to keep my distance, but it’s a perfect spot to sit and reflect on where I am. I look at Google Maps to take in just how remote I am – a blue dot on this tiny island at the bottom of a string of other remote islands. The scale of the ocean beyond me is mind blowing. I see a woman drop down onto the beach from the far side of the island, walking purposely across the sand. She clearly knows where she’s going and is not put off by the cows. We wave, she heads around the bay and that’s the only human company I see during my hour here. Back at the car I have enough phone signal to post a photo of the beach cattle on Twitter with a caption saying “All this way and the beach is full”. Until now, my Twitter account @scottishbeach has a modest following of a few hundred people. Chasing followers on Twitter is clearly not my motivation for this project, but I like to post pictures of my visits and if it adds to the enjoyment of someone’s day, that’s great. I think nothing of it, until later on Barra when I see my Bagh A’Deas post has received more than a thousand likes and I have doubled my followers. There is something special about Vatersay and judging by the amount of comments I received on Twitter from people who had experienced this island, it’s certainly left an indelible mark on many visitors over the years.  Maybe it’s the location, right at the tip of the Western Island chain.  I can’t put my finger on what exactly makes Vatersay so intoxicating, but it certainly casts a spell.