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11 September 2023

As I work my way up the tiny coast road from Brenish on this wildly exposed western edge of Lewis, I stop briefly to admire again the imposing Mangersta sea stacks before taking one of only two parking spots a little further up the road opposite a gate leading down to Mangersta Beach (Traigh Mhangurstadh).  If the tiny beach at Mealastra was the hors d’oeuvre, then this impressive beach is a fulsome main course and an instant hit. Unseen from the road, this is one of those ‘take your breath away’ beaches that gradually unveil themselves and quicken your heartbeat as they come into view. The sheep at the top of the grassy cliff down to the beach show no interest in me as I make my way down to sand level. The sun is now showing signs of winning the battle with the grey clouds, and occasionally lights up the huge rolling Atlantic waves as they smash against the volcanic rocks on either side of this deep sandy beach. I climb high up on the headland to watch the magnificent spectacle, surprised that I am the only person enjoying the show. I notice a tiny sandy bay just around the headland but completely inaccessible, and quite right too.