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11 September 2023

It’s my second day in the Outer Hebs and my plan is to spend the day on the west coast of Lewis, working my way north around the coast from Mangersta and ending on the island of Bernera. Fortunately, the forecast is for brighter weather today after yesterday’s washout, but when I set out early some stubborn light showers are still hanging around, creating a series of dramatic rainbows as the sun fights bravely to break through, which it eventually does. I follow the long coast road to the remote Mangersta sea stacks and wait for the rain to stop, which it does on cue. I take a walk around the clifftop, admiring the impressive stacks. Earlier, during a shower, I studied the map and noticed a small beach further down the single track road to Mangersta, past the hamlet of Brenish. I am close by so I have to check it out and I’m glad I do. Google Maps has a beach marked here called Liddell Beach but I can’t find any reference to this anywhere else. The OS map doesn’t even have a named beach here at all, but I later find references to Mealasta Beach, after the largely uninhabited former village nearby. According to Wikipedia, During WWII several hundred people were stationed at Mealasta and Brenish to operate wireless and radar installations. There was a cinema, a bar and dancing, so this now-deserted remote stretch of coast has seen its fair share of action. It’s a beautiful little beach too and a great place to start my day.