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10 September 2023

Almost exactly a year after my first visit to the Outer Hebrides I was excited to be back. This time, my sights were set on Lewis and Harris, the two northernmost of the Western Isles. I had four days to explore, but this first day was destined to be a wet one and I had to don the waterproofs straight off the plane at Stornoway. I don’t mind walking in rain, and it was hardly lashing it down, so I was more than happy to set off to follow the road north of Stornoway to the village of Tolsta, where three beautiful beaches were waiting to get the ball rolling. I parked at the beach car park of Tolsta Beach itself (Traigh Mhor) but rather than head onto the sands, I walked out the car park, back up the hill and around the headland to¬†Traigh Ghearadha, commonly known as Garry Beach. This beach does have its own car park but despite the rain, I was happy to walk. I’m glad I did because my first view of this magnificent beach was from high upon the cliff, looking down on the impressive sea stacks at the southern end of the beach. I followed the path down onto the beach, poked around the rocks and onto the far side, where the iconic¬†“bridge to nowhere” remains as a reminder of what might have been.