15. Corran Sands

It’s Sunday morning and the forecast is grim. I loved my day trip to Colonsay yesterday and am looking forward to making the short ferry-hop over to Jura for today’s walking. But with rain forecast, I expect I’ll be limited to short walks and an early return. On arrival at Port Askaig, the ferry captain confirms that rain is on the way. I’m disappointed but not downhearted because I’m OK walking in bad weather and I really want to experience Jura, which I’ve heard has a very different vibe to its near neighbour.

I set off on the first crossing of the day hoping to get in at least a few hours of dry walking before the rain. When I say ‘crossing’, it’s literally just a five minute hop. Jura is a wild and rugged island, 29 miles long and 7 miles wide. It’s populated by 200 people and 6,500 deer (its name means ‘dear island’). The only road, mostly single track, runs up the east side of the island, with most of the action centred around the village of Craighouse. The west is virtually uninhabited, amazing for an island almost within touching distance of the Scottish mainland. I set off with few expectations because of the forecast rain, but I know I have to at least visit Corran Sands, just a few miles north of Craighouse. The beautiful beach is a picture of serenity on this quiet Sunday morning. Even just driving through Craighouse, I am struck by the micro-community feel of Jura – the welcoming signs, the tiny school, the friendly waving locals. It feels calm and homely. When I reach the tiny Corran Sands car park, the community vibe is everywhere – noticeboards, benches, walking recommendations, picnic areas. The beach even has its own set of rules. It’s such a beautiful bay and superbly managed by the locals. I see no-one in the hour I spend on this beach but I feel part of the family. Even the sun tries to break through the grey clouds to welcome me. My visit is worth it for this time on Corran Sands alone, but more is to come,