
8. Claggain Bay
I am filled with boyish excitement when I arrive at Kennacraig for the morning Calmac sailing to Islay. During the pandemic-induced hiatus from travelling, I have settled on the idea of the Scottish Beach Project. The five beaches I visited in Wester Ross in 2019 confirmed the decision. So I set about planning this island-hopping trip to Islay, Jura and Colonsay. I always do a rich amount of research before any major walk and I had a full itinerary planned, knowing exactly which beaches I would visit and which routes to take. It’s important to me that the Project remains a walking initiative, not a box-ticking exercise. The objective is to walk to, and on, Scottish beaches, preferably involving significant multi-mile hikes. I am, after all, a walker at heart.
So I’m in the queue at Kennacraig, looking up at the larger-than-expected Calmac ferry. It’s my first time, but I try to look cool, like I’m a regular. The sailing takes a few hours and the excitement builds, along with a few nerves as we approach Port Ellen. On arrival, I know exactly where I need to go – Claggain Bay on the south-east coast. I pass the Ardbeg distillery on the way and as the road narrows I meet a huge German motorhome coming towards me. It’s a stand-off and Herr Motorhome isn’t one for reversing. I do the honours, avoiding eye contact as he drives past. I’m not against motorhomes, but this one was enormous on a tiny single track road. Further on, I park at the famous Kildalton High Cross, a 1,300 year old carved Christian relic. I look around before setting off on foot the remaining two miles to Claggain Bay. I could drive all the way to the bay but where’s the fun in that? The beach itself has been described as one of the most beautiful bays in the whole of Scotland. With sweeping white shell sand, amazing views and backed by rolling farmland, it’s easy to see why. It’s warm and humid, but great and overcast, so my photos don’t do justice to how idyllic it is. I attempt to film a clip with my new GoPro but I’m terrible at it and I soon give up on the idea. I definitely plan to return here one day. The Project is up and running.



