24. North End Beaches

It’s an absolutely beautiful sunny day on the Isle of Mull and I am looking forward to my first visit to Iona, described as the birthplace of Christianity in Scotland.  I set out early towards Fionnphort along the A849. I’m heading through the Ross of Mull and it’s stunning. It must be one of the most scenic drives in Scotland. I find it hard to concentrate on the single-track road ahead because of the red deers grazing at the foot of the imposing hills. Eventually, I arrive at Fionnphort in time to catch the first ferry to the wonderful island of Iona. It’s a short sailing, and upon arrival I head straight along the coast road to the northern beaches, past the Iona Abbey and Nunnery. I’m immediately struck by the serenity of this small, sacred island, the tranquility of which is amplified under the clear blue skies. Iona has become a place of pilgrimage for Christians from across the world and today the island hosts a number of religious and wellbeing retreats. It’s said that St Columba arrived here from Ireland in AD 563 and the monastery they founded is famed to be one of the most important and influential in the British Isles.

The sense of calmness is reinforced as I reach the first of the North End beaches, to the right of the path and through a small gate. What a magnificent beach this is, so let’s give it is full majestic name – The East and White Strand of the Monks (Traigh Bhan Nam Monach). Dramatic rock formations, pristine Caribbean sand and turquoise pools. Stunning. Further to the west, I find the second of the North End beaches, more expansive and backed by dunes but equally impressive and with commanding views across to the Treshnish Islands. I have the whole place to myself and it’s unforgettable.